Leather furniture is a classic style that has been around for ages. It can’t be explained but many people just love the look and the styles that leather furniture offers. So that is one reason you should take care of your leather furniture.

Though there is not much care and maintenance for leather, because of its natural strength and durability, wear and tear; stains and spills are bound to happen. Let’s see if we can address these 2 issues.


Leather Sofa Repair


What came to your mind when you see above picture? This is exactly what happen and thankfully I found an article in the internet that shared how to repair this type of damage in $30 budget. Amazing huh? Right, I can’t believe myself either, until I follow the recommended instructions and finish the project myself.

The effort to repair the couch

Ideas began to take root and I got the things needed to repair our furniture. So here is my leather repair kit


I had previously brought home a sample swatch of faux leather material to see if it would match our furniture. Would you believe that I matched the color dead on the first try?

But would it work? It was worth the $30 in material and Fabric Tac to find out

Here is how it looks today

Leather Sofa Cleaning

For simple spills just wipe away excess with a clean warm absorbent cloth and then air to dry.

For more tough stains, you should use leather cleaning products, like leather stain remover or cleaner.

It you have serious oil stains, its quite simple to clean without leaving scratches. First wipe away the stain with a dry cloth, it’s highly recommended not to use water on these kinds of stains. You should remove any liquid stains before applying any leather cleaning product.

Cleaning leather is more about what not to do, rather then how to clean it. You should never use harsh soap or cleaners on your leather. Don’t use any kind of soap on your leather. And since leather is naturally preserved it doesn’t need any brushing, or scrubbing when removing a stain. If you use any kind of oils or varnishes it makes the leather sticky.

It’s basically quite simple to clean your leather if it is a protective coating, regular dusting and removal of stains will keep your leather in good shape. It’s recommended to use a leather polish after you dust and clean.

But if there is no coating it involves a little more work. You’ll have to use a damp cloth to remove stains immediately and then go over it with a dry cloth and finally finish with a polish or protector.


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Sill and threshold get worn out from weather after years, just like any other home furniture and accessories. Most of the time we won’t even notice them until it became very bad in condition. You can save quite a bit of money by replacing them yourself with metal or wood threshold, together with a rubber gasket as sealing.

Normally, there is a sill under an exterior threshold and it usually get rotten if the threshold is already rotten. In order to drain water away from the house, the sill is beveled on one side. Sill stock can be used to replace old sill with new sill in same shape. As the sill fits tightly between wall studs and under the casing and jambs, it usually has to be cut before it can be removed.

Even if your interior threshold might be still in good condition, you might want to get it replaced as well in order to match the new flooring on the side of the doorway. 

Checklist To Replace Sill and Threshold

2 or 3 hours

Circular saw or reciprocating saw, saber saw, hammer, chisel, nail set, tape measure, square, drill

Basic carpentry skills

Protect the floor with a drop cloth.

New threshold and/or sill stock, flooring adhesive, galvanized finishing nails, caulk

Replacing a Sill and Threshold

A threshold is placed under the door or rests on top of a sill, forming an extends outward.

Alternatively, it can rest partially on the sill and a piece of blocking.

In newer homes design, a wide metal thresholds extends outward is used instead of a sill.

Replacing a threshold:

The threshold is fitted below the stops and against the jambs. In order to remove it, you may need to use a nail set and hammer to poke the nails through. Then, it can be tapped out using a block of wood and hammer.

Don’t throw away the old threshold yet, use it as template to measure and cut the new one.

Once it is cut out, try to fit it before slipping it into the position. Next, apply flooring adhesive to the floor, drill some testing holes and secure it with 10d casing nails. After that, cover up the nail holes with exterior wood putty.


Replacing a sill:

As the sill is nailed under the jambs, in order to remove it, you will have to cut it into pieces. You will need to cut out a big middle section before chisel or pry out the smaller sections on the sides.

If you are able to remove the old sill without damaging it, you can use it as template measurement for your new sill to ensure the length is accurate. Otherwise, just tap the new sill in and adjust accordingly.

Once it is fitted in, apply flooring adhesive and secure it with 12d casing nails.

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Have you ever install a laminate floor? If you’re going to install a laminate floor – and you’re not an expert – there are a couple of things you need to, and several of them are not all that obvious.

First off, let’s not get all the task done alone, get at least one or two people to help you. Most rooms are quite a good size, and even a small room is going to require two to three planks in a row. Well, all of the joints have to be supported while you lock the new row into the old (previous) one. There is no way to do that by yourself!


Video Instruction to install laminate flooring 


Next, depending on the quality of the laminate, the tongue and grooves on each board might be nothing more than fibre board, which is nothing more than pressed cardboard. You can avoid this by buying good quality laminate. Ask the clerk at the store you shop at as to what the laminates they have available are made from. These days, you can get them made of bamboo, which is a very durable material, yet not at all expensive.

Now, if you do end up with the inexpensive laminate – that is, the ones with the fibre board tongue and groove – know this: you can only re-position each board about five to six times before the tongue and groove start to give out. This may seem like a lot of chances to get the boards in the right position, but – for the inexperienced installer (amateur) – you can burn through those options quicker than you know.

If you have a situation where a board just isn’t connecting with the others – toss it aside (for later use, to be explained below). It’s better to try again with a fresh board than end up with a floor that looks shoddy.
However, here is another priceless little tip – just because a board has its tongue torn off, that does not mean you have to throw it away. Now, if the groove is badly damaged, there really is not much you can do with it, unless the damaged area is small enough to cut away.

In that event, you may end up with a short length of plank to use on an end or corner. In the case of the tongue, you can use food glue and try to re-attach it to the board. At the very least, set the plank(s) aside and let it (them) dry for about 24 hours. If, after that, they feel good and solid, you can use them again.

Finally, there is the under-layment fabric you place between the bare floor and the laminate you put down. Technically, you are supposed to completely cover the floor, but if you run short, there is an option you can use to avoid having to buy an entire roll for just a small space. You can just substitute some folded up newspaper. Place several pages together and fold them until they are the same thickness of the under layer. Just make sure that you don’t use newspaper to cover a large area – something a few inches wide is all.

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Imagine this. You have owned your home for quite a few years and have done some DIY around the ol’ homestead. You one day look at your ceilings and discover that they are perfectly fine except for the water marks left from when your kid played sailor Sam in the tub last month.

You decide after discussing it with the “little Mrs.” that it is time for a textured look for the living room. Checking with various contractors, you find that the price to have it done is a bit out of the ballpark for you, and you decide to do-it-yourself.

Buying the hardware needed

So, off you go to the local large department store type chain hardware store with your ideas and questions. You learn it can be done by the DIY’er simply and easily and for a fraction of the cost of the contractor’s price. And then there is the satisfaction of doing the job yourself and living to tell about it!

Different type of texture hopper sprays

The sales person stops you in mid sentence with “are you spraying it on?” You look at him like he just stomped on your cat and say…”what?” With that he looks at you strangely and guides you to the line of sprayers they have made just for — you guessed, it spraying on a textured ceiling! Until just this moment you thought they were all done by hand!

He politely explains about the different types of texture hopper sprayers. He simplest has a container (the hopper) mounted on top of the spray gun that you load the texture mix into and then spray it on the ceiling.
You mix the material into a thick texture, usually like a biscuit batter, load it in the hopper and spray away.

Safety Precautions

There are some safety precautions and things that will keep your job easier too, like a short scaffolding to reduce the distance between you and the ceiling, goggles to keep the spray out of your eyes and a mask to keep it out of your lungs. You also should work in a well-ventilated area.

Buy or Rent

You aren’t sure if you want to do more than the one room in the house, so the sales person advises you to rent the equipment rather than buy it and only use it once. Not very cost effective. Or you could buy it and let your neighbor borrow it. Then you might get it back should you need it again.

Get everything together

So, you get everything together, the texturizing material, plastic for the floor, scaffolding and your protective safety equipment and a video to watch while you wait for the weather to be the optimal above 70 and low humidity.

Prep the ceiling

In the meantime, you prep the ceiling making sure there is no dirt or loose paint that needs to be removed before you texture it. It just wouldn’t be right for a loose chunk to fall in your coffee when the textured weight hits a weak area and it eventually comes down and once again, proves that gravity does work.

Wait for the right weather

Finally the weather is right, and you send the wife and son off for the day to the zoo so you can work un interrupted. You head for the hardware rental center in the big store and rent your equipment, get a last minute coaching from the sales person, and, off you go to spray up a ceiling.

After a final check for loose paint and covering the floor with sheet plastic you assemble the scaffolding, then mix the texture material to it’s dough consistency, load the hopper, put on your goggles and mask and you’re good to go!

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