As years passed, an exterior threshold may be out of shape due to wear and tear and weather. Lots of time it didn’t even get noticed until in a very bad condition. It can be replaced with a wood or metal threshold, either of which is available with a rubber gasket as sealing.

There is usually a sill below an exterior threshold. If the threshold is rotted, the sill probably is also. The sill is beveled on one side to drain water away from the house. Replace a sill using sill stock that has the same profile (shape) as the old sill. It fits tightly between wall studs and under the jambs and casing, so it has to be cut before it can be removed.

You may want to replace an interior threshold because the old one is ugly or because new flooring on one side of the doorway calls for it. An interior threshold simply rests on the floor with no sill under it.

Prestart Checklist

Time
2 or 3 hours

Tools
Circular saw or reciprocating saw, saber saw, hammer, chisel, nail set, tape measure, square, drill

Skills
Basic carpentry skills

Prep
Protect the floor with a drop cloth.

Materials
New threshold and/or sill stock, flooring adhesive, galvanized finishing nails, caulk

Replacing a Sill and Threshold

A threshold (also called a saddle) is positioned directly under the door. In some cases it rests on top of a sill, which extends outward.

Or it may rest partly on the sill and partly on a piece of blocking.

In some newer homes there is no sill; instead a wide metal threshold extends outward to do the job of the sill.

Replacing a threshold:

The threshold usually fits below the stops and against the jambs. To remove one use a nail set and hammer to poke the nails all the way through. Then tap the threshold out using a hammer and a block of wood.

Use the old threshold as a template to mark for cutting the new one.

Test the fit of the new threshold. Apply flooring adhesive to the floor, slip the threshold into place, drill pilot holes, and drive 10d casing nails to secure it. Fill the nail holes with exterior wood putty.

Replacing a sill:

Because it is nailed under the jambs, you will have to cut a sill into pieces before removing it. Cut out a large middle section, then chisel or pry out the smaller sections at the sides.

If the old sill pieces are intact, assemble them on top of the new sill stock and use them as a template. However, measure to be sure the overall length is correct.

Tap in the new sill to be sure it fits. Apply flooring adhesive and install the new sill with 12d casing nails.

What If… You are installing a metal threshold?

With a metal threshold it is usually easier to cut the stop moldings to fit around the threshold. Cut the sill with a hacksaw. Use a hammer and chisel to cut through the stops.

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Have you ever install a laminate floor? If you’re going to install a laminate floor – and you’re not an expert – there are a couple of things you need to, and several of them are not all that obvious.

First off, let’s not get all the task done alone, get at least one or two people to help you. Most rooms are quite a good size, and even a small room is going to require two to three planks in a row. Well, all of the joints have to be supported while you lock the new row into the old (previous) one. There is no way to do that by yourself!

 

Video Instruction to install laminate flooring 

 

Next, depending on the quality of the laminate, the tongue and grooves on each board might be nothing more than fibre board, which is nothing more than pressed cardboard. You can avoid this by buying good quality laminate. Ask the clerk at the store you shop at as to what the laminates they have available are made from. These days, you can get them made of bamboo, which is a very durable material, yet not at all expensive.

Now, if you do end up with the inexpensive laminate – that is, the ones with the fibre board tongue and groove – know this: you can only re-position each board about five to six times before the tongue and groove start to give out. This may seem like a lot of chances to get the boards in the right position, but – for the inexperienced installer (amateur) – you can burn through those options quicker than you know.

If you have a situation where a board just isn’t connecting with the others – toss it aside (for later use, to be explained below). It’s better to try again with a fresh board than end up with a floor that looks shoddy.
However, here is another priceless little tip – just because a board has its tongue torn off, that does not mean you have to throw it away. Now, if the groove is badly damaged, there really is not much you can do with it, unless the damaged area is small enough to cut away.

In that event, you may end up with a short length of plank to use on an end or corner. In the case of the tongue, you can use food glue and try to re-attach it to the board. At the very least, set the plank(s) aside and let it (them) dry for about 24 hours. If, after that, they feel good and solid, you can use them again.

Finally, there is the under-layment fabric you place between the bare floor and the laminate you put down. Technically, you are supposed to completely cover the floor, but if you run short, there is an option you can use to avoid having to buy an entire roll for just a small space. You can just substitute some folded up newspaper. Place several pages together and fold them until they are the same thickness of the under layer. Just make sure that you don’t use newspaper to cover a large area – something a few inches wide is all.

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Imagine this. You have owned your home for quite a few years and have done some DIY around the ol’ homestead. You one day look at your ceilings and discover that they are perfectly fine except for the water marks left from when your kid played sailor Sam in the tub last month.

You decide after discussing it with the “little Mrs.” that it is time for a textured look for the living room. Checking with various contractors, you find that the price to have it done is a bit out of the ballpark for you, and you decide to do-it-yourself.

Buying the hardware needed

So, off you go to the local large department store type chain hardware store with your ideas and questions. You learn it can be done by the DIY’er simply and easily and for a fraction of the cost of the contractor’s price. And then there is the satisfaction of doing the job yourself and living to tell about it!

Different type of texture hopper sprays

The sales person stops you in mid sentence with “are you spraying it on?” You look at him like he just stomped on your cat and say…”what?” With that he looks at you strangely and guides you to the line of sprayers they have made just for — you guessed, it spraying on a textured ceiling! Until just this moment you thought they were all done by hand!

He politely explains about the different types of texture hopper sprayers. He simplest has a container (the hopper) mounted on top of the spray gun that you load the texture mix into and then spray it on the ceiling.
You mix the material into a thick texture, usually like a biscuit batter, load it in the hopper and spray away.

Safety Precautions

There are some safety precautions and things that will keep your job easier too, like a short scaffolding to reduce the distance between you and the ceiling, goggles to keep the spray out of your eyes and a mask to keep it out of your lungs. You also should work in a well-ventilated area.

Buy or Rent

You aren’t sure if you want to do more than the one room in the house, so the sales person advises you to rent the equipment rather than buy it and only use it once. Not very cost effective. Or you could buy it and let your neighbor borrow it. Then you might get it back should you need it again.

Get everything together

So, you get everything together, the texturizing material, plastic for the floor, scaffolding and your protective safety equipment and a video to watch while you wait for the weather to be the optimal above 70 and low humidity.

Prep the ceiling

In the meantime, you prep the ceiling making sure there is no dirt or loose paint that needs to be removed before you texture it. It just wouldn’t be right for a loose chunk to fall in your coffee when the textured weight hits a weak area and it eventually comes down and once again, proves that gravity does work.

Wait for the right weather

Finally the weather is right, and you send the wife and son off for the day to the zoo so you can work un interrupted. You head for the hardware rental center in the big store and rent your equipment, get a last minute coaching from the sales person, and, off you go to spray up a ceiling.

After a final check for loose paint and covering the floor with sheet plastic you assemble the scaffolding, then mix the texture material to it’s dough consistency, load the hopper, put on your goggles and mask and you’re good to go!

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Leather furniture is a classic style that has been around for ages. It can’t be explained but many people just love the look and the styles that leather furniture offers. So that is one reason you should take care of your leather furniture.

Though there is not much care and maintenance for leather, because of its natural strength and durability, wear and tear; stains and spills are bound to happen. Let’s see if we can address these 2 issues.

 

Leather Sofa Repair

 

What came to your mind when you see above picture? This is exactly what happen and thankfully I found an article in the internet that shared how to repair this type of damage in $30 budget. Amazing huh? Right, I can’t believe myself either, until I follow the recommended instructions and finish the project myself.

The effort to repair the couch

Ideas began to take root and I got the things needed to repair our furniture. So here is my leather repair kit

 

I had previously brought home a sample swatch of faux leather material to see if it would match our furniture. Would you believe that I matched the color dead on the first try?

But would it work? It was worth the $30 in material and Fabric Tac to find out

Here is how it looks today

Leather Sofa Cleaning

For simple spills just wipe away excess with a clean warm absorbent cloth and then air to dry.

For more tough stains, you should use leather cleaning products, like leather stain remover or cleaner.

It you have serious oil stains, its quite simple to clean without leaving scratches. First wipe away the stain with a dry cloth, it’s highly recommended not to use water on these kinds of stains. You should remove any liquid stains before applying any leather cleaning product.

Cleaning leather is more about what not to do, rather then how to clean it. You should never use harsh soap or cleaners on your leather. Don’t use any kind of soap on your leather. And since leather is naturally preserved it doesn’t need any brushing, or scrubbing when removing a stain. If you use any kind of oils or varnishes it makes the leather sticky.

It’s basically quite simple to clean your leather if it is a protective coating, regular dusting and removal of stains will keep your leather in good shape. It’s recommended to use a leather polish after you dust and clean.

But if there is no coating it involves a little more work. You’ll have to use a damp cloth to remove stains immediately and then go over it with a dry cloth and finally finish with a polish or protector.

 

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